Grigri guide mode. Lastly, try to find a carabiner with as round of a profile as you can - I love the Petzl Attache for belaying in guide mode, made a pretty good difference. Dec 16, 2022 · The best belay device for multi-pitch climbing is an auto-blocking belay device when the device is set up in guide mode, such as the Black Diamond ATC Guide or the Petzl Grigri. Jan 28, 2019 · I'm not 100% sure what failure mode this is attempting to address, but my guess is that there are a few ways where the GriGri lever can get caught and stuck open while lowering in guide mode, and the redirected brake strand gives you enough friction to control the descent with only the brake strand. Aug 14, 2018 · About the only reason to use a "guide mode" device is if you are belaying up two different climbers on two ropes. Any rock climber climbing a multi-pitch route will likely want to utilize guide mode. This method can be very dangerous if used incorrectly. It also takes rope diameters down to 7. , you can be momentarily hands-free and still have a (fairly) secure belay. This is just another reason to not take your hand off the brake strand, but ESPECIALLY not while belaying with a Grigri off an anchor from the top. GriGri's are not auto-locking; you still have to hold the brake rope at all times, just like you would with a normal belay device. Clipping the GriGri direct to the belay was way more faff that using a guide plate – in the end I gave up and used an Italian hitch. The main issues with Guide Mode GriGri setup are: Yes, the mechanism can get stuck on rock if you set it up incorrectly. We decided to give it a go. Jul 11, 2024 · Just take the Petzl Grigri for instance: We've been testing this groundbreaking design since its very first iteration and have watched the evolution firsthand, from the follow-up Grigri 2 to the upgraded Grigri + and the latest Neox, which is an innovative spinoff with a different internal mechanism for paying out slack smoother and more quickly. 5, and I dread belaying with that. I wouldn't mind just using the gri gri to belay my second instead for a few weeks instead picking up another guide. It's a bit less all-or-nothing, but you have the added danger that the lever can get tangled in things and stuck open. I'm comfortable going hands free as long as I can see it's hanging in the proper position. 3mm. com This video shows how to belay in guide mode for different devices including a grigri, ATC or Plate Device, and Munter Hitch. Guide Mode is an auto-locking belay technique for climbing. Among the active assist braking devices, the GriGri is the lightest, but the Edelrid Giga Jul's passive braking assist is lighter and more versatile while providing a similarly secure catch. The GriGri can be a safe belay device, but accidents have happened due to improper use. An atc guide or similar device will allow you to belay from the top in guide mode, belay two partners from above, and rappel off the route. This is because the Grigri is auto-blocking while an ATC belayed from a harness is not. Fatter ropes will also be harder to belay with; 10. On alpine routes where the belayer needs to use semi-downtime to change clothes, check the topo, grab some food/water, etc. Feb 17, 2024 · In my opinion this is more common when the second slowly weights the Grigri; a sudden or fast fall tends to have a better chance of engaging the Grigri's cam in this scenario. Guide Mode with a GriGri You can belay directly from the anchor with an assisted-braking belay device in a similar way to the guide mode technique. DMM Pivot – guide mode dream; Mammut Smart 2. AMGA Certified Rock Instructor Erik Kramer-Webb shares his top tips on top-belaying with a GriGri. This shows how to both raise and lower followers when belaying from the Jan 28, 2019 · By Jonathan Doyle - Tips, advice and comparisons on using guide mode belaying devices for rock climbing and mountaineering. However, the Grigri is overall a safer belay device. May 11, 2019 · The issue was bringing up the second. However, if you want the versatility of belaying one or two followers, stick with a tube device with guide mode. So, in my opinion a guide plate is best in these environments. Leader is belayed on a Grigri, while carrying the other belay device. If a belayer lets go of the brake strand during a fall, the Grigri will still lock up and catch the climber. 2 is about as big as I like to go with guide mode, but one of my partners has a 10. Anyone have experience with a Gri Gri 2 in guide mode? I've lost my guide ATC and now only have a a regular tube ATC for rapelling and a gri gri. This article explains how to use guide mode for climbing + how to lower a climber in guide mode. Summary. That said, it stays at home because the grigri can do the same thing (better) and more. If cost is keeping you from getting a grigri then the atc is perfectly fine. . Unfortunately lowering safely with the GriGri in guide mode is no less trivial than with an ATC Guide. May 5, 2011 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. This is especially true with thinner ropes, very light climbers or if there is rope-drag on the route. 1 Grigri and 1 Guide/Reverso/whatever per team. Includes belaying, lowering, a 3 to 1 pulley system for b Lowering is easier also the orientation of the belay loop for guide mode is 90° compared to the BD ATC wich orientates the rope either up or down on a anchor. The ATC XP: another belay device from Black Diamond inspired by the classic Grigri slips if pulled slowly (fall on slab, rope drag, etc) Guide mode atc doesn't slip at all, as long as it's not pressed against rock funny or anything. It can be used with all single ropes (optimized for 8. Thanks Amrit for shooting the video. Jun 6, 2017 · GRIGRI+ is an assisted braking device designed for all climbers, for both indoor and outdoor climbing. Both have fallen onto a GriGri setup like this and caught followers, can vouch it does work. My mate wasn’t pleased as his rope developed some gnarly kinks in the last few pitches. May 5, 2025 · The BD ATC Guide adds another ounce to your harness but not much more bulk. For rappels fix the rope in the middle, first person rappels with Grigri on single strand. Here are the best belay devices: Petzl GriGri 2; Black Diamond ATC-Guide; Edelrid Mega Jul; Petzl GriGri + Petzl Reverso Dec 22, 2022 · The ATC Guide: the ATC Guide is like the ATC’s big brother. How to use a guide-mode device The advantage of a guide-mode device over a regular tubular belay device is that it can be secured directly to the anchor in a way that makes the device brake automatically when your seconder falls or rests on the rope. Follower is belayed in guide mode. For that reason, it is the preferred tool for multi-pitch climbing amongst all the ATC devices. It's also lighter. Feb 15, 2024 · This isn’t a feature just for guides. It’s different than an atc but easy to learn and the assisted breaking is nice. So keep an eye on that. It functions and is used the same way as the ATC, except it has an additional loop for belaying in guide mode. Second unties the knot and raps both strands on the other device, with partner giving fireman belay. An assisted-braking belay device is in guide mode when it is clipped Apr 27, 2021 · Guide mode is a large part of why climbers buy these devices, so although the Reverso scored well, we can’t recommend it over the ATC-Guide (unless those last 29g are really going to make the difference for your day). Oct 16, 2020 · With this system, typically the leader is always belayed with the Grigri and the second is always belayed with the plaquette in guide mode. As a leader I would prefer to just carry an atc guide, as a follower I prefer to use a grigri and carry an atc for backup and as a rappel device. The document has moved here. Sep 21, 2023 · The GriGri uses an internal mechanism to pinch the climbing rope anytime the rope is pulled quickly through the device. Jan 4, 2024 · Belay Device Buying Guide (top 5 things to know when choosing) Belay Devices for Rappelling; Do you need Brake Assist on your Belay Device? GriGri vs GriGri+ vs GriGri 2; See the 40+ brands who make Belay Devices; Belay Device Reviews & Overviews. I know from experience. Moved Permanently. 0 – with brake assist; Black Diamond ATC Pilot Jun 27, 2020 · Alpine ‘Grigri’: Assisted Braking belay using a Guide mode device for top rope. The ATC, on the other hand, cannot arrest a fall if the belayer releases the rope. Since many multi-pitch climbers rappel the route, they expect to use a tube belay device that accepts 2 ropes (vs a GriGri style device which cannot perform a standard rappel). You can belay off the anchor with a GriGri, it catches falls. See full list on thewanderingclimber. As a gear nerd it was fun to try but it’s not the device to buy. xdzvnfzn zsvog zrpg marrdj scj frhcdo bratq xshiwqp ghbga nqbzwsi